The Wine & Food of Piemonte

Although it is difficult to represent any wine region in a condensed form, Piemonte presents particular difficulties, given the complexity of its wines and the historical and philosophical nuances that inform their crafting. In fact, its eternal King and Queen, Barolo and Barbaresco, provide material for lifelong study—given the infinite and subtle distinctions that mark various producers’ interpretations of single vineyards. Moreover, while Piemonte may possess a relatively modest varietal lineup in comparison to other regions, producers number in excess of 800, with several possessing very minuscule portions of land. It can be a little overwhelming, but many, if not all Italian wine experts, believe that knowledge of Piemonte is integral to realizing a genuine appreciation and understanding of Italian wine.

Although the reverence accorded Piemonte is essentially the provenance of its reds, the other primary wine classifications boast a fair degree of attention themselves. In fact, you likely got your start in Piemonte—before you knew what you were getting into—with the popular mainstays of its sparkling category, Asti Spumante and Moscato d’Asti, which represent, respectively, sparkling and semisparkling versions of the Moscato grape. Piemonte’s Langhe hills also feature some notable metodo classico sparklers, with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay serving as the principal varietal bases of the region’s dry sparkling wines. Outside of its sparkling role, Chardonnay enjoys a fairly prominent position in Piemonte’s still white category, and it represents the sole international variety recognized under the Langhe DOC. Productions derived from this area exhibit notable acidity and a mineral presence. On the native scene, the main varietal constituents are Arneis, Erbaluce, and Cortese di Gavi.

Things get more complicated when you enter the red zone; although the grapes concerned may not be numerous, they are represented by a multitude of DOC zones, each of which, theoretically, delivers a particular rendition of the grape concerned. Nebbiolo is the source of Piemonte’s most complex, distinguished, and famous wines, Barolo and Barbaresco. Nebbiolo possesses almost exclusive affinity with Piemonte, as its performance outside this heralded zone is serviceable at best. Despite its marked rapport with Piemonte, Nebbiolo still proves to be a difficult partner, a fact directly implied by its provision of less than 3% of the area’s production. A demanding one, it requires significant exposure to the summer sun and ripens very late in the season.

While Barbaresco is considered to be softer than Barolo, given the appellation’s primary soil type (calcareous), many examples defy this convenient point of difference. In general, however, it tends to be slightly finer, less tannic, and more elegant than Barolo, and typically offers greater approachability.

A significant dimension of a wine’s character is influenced by the medium selected for aging as well as the represented site. In traditional practice, Barolos and Barbarescos are fermented in large wooden botti and the maceration process may extend over a two-month period. In modern methodology, which began to evolve in the 1960s, both maceration and fermentation periods were reduced. A hallmark of the movement was the introduction of new French oak barrels, which is widely attributed to Angelo Gaja.

In early production, the vineyard was rendered somewhat subordinate to the grape, as winemakers blended grapes from various vineyard sites, believing that the “perfect Barolo” derived from multiple sources. Yet, the beneficent vintage of 1961 inaugurated a significant shift in value, as vintners sought to privilege the distinctive elements characterizing specific sites. Barolo’s vineyards have been the subject of rigorous, extensive study, entailing the delineation of nuances in altitude, exposure, and soil composition, although its vineyards do not operate within a qualitative construct. In the early ’80s, famed oenologist and winemaker Renato Ratti developed a map delineating all of the historic Barolo and Barbaresco crus; this comprehensive presentation continues to exercise influence in contemporary Piemonte studies.

Although the height of Nebbiolo’s expression is realized in Barolo and Barbaresco, these DOCGs do not have exclusive rights over the interpretation of Nebbiolo. In northern Piemonte, Nebbiolo is commonly referred to as Spanna, and the region of Gattinara is considered to produce its most commanding expressions. While regulations permit the addition of ten percent Vespolina and Bonarda, most Gattinara is pure Nebbiolo. The nearby DOCG of Ghemme allows the inclusion of up to 25 percent Vespolina and Uva Rara. In general, these wines are lighter in style and body than the more esteemed duo, although some Gattinaras may rival the aging potential of Barolo. In Piemonte proper, Nebbiolo is offered under both the Nebbiolo d’Alba and Langhe DOC classifications. As aging requirements are less exacting, they afford the opportunity to experience a less complex Nebbiolo, which is frequently enhanced by the addition of other grapes.

Outside Nebbiolo, Piemonte’s repertoire offers two grapes that broaden its scope. Barbera, the most extensively planted of Piemonte’s main varieties, offers the greatest stylistic range. Though traditionally a light and rustic wine, today’s Barbera is decidedly more expressive than its former persona. Dolcetto is the perfect varietal foil to Nebbiolo given its low acidity and innately fruity character, which may be maximized or tempered through site selection and vinification techniques. Although oak aging enables it to mature, Dolcetto is primarily considered to be an early drinking wine.